Belgrade is a city where people eat well and a lot. But the tourist spots by the fortress aren't the best choice. Here's where to go for the real thing.
Skadarlija
A bohemian cobblestone street with old kafanas and live music. Atmospheric, but come in the evening and not at peak season.
Dorćol
A quiet neighbourhood with local kafanas and no tourist markup — where Belgraders go themselves. Order ćevapi, pljeskavica and homemade rakija.
Savamala
A more modern area with a new wave of cafés and bars by the river.
🍽️ Tip: in a kafana it's normal to order one big meat dish for two — the portions are generous.